Was this cloth amongst their offerings at their base price or was there a cost supplement? As there are no buttons and buttonholes on the fittings, I couldnt detect this issue. Hi Lewis, Its unlikely theyll be able to do it in much of a rush though, given it has to go back to Naples each time to be made. Have a good weekend. Do you think their house style could work in a deep navy seersucker SB? From what Ive seen of the Huntsman service its good, but it is expensive for what it is. We felt that lack of advice offered us a huge gap in the market.. Is sufficient to have the master coatmaker in the fittings or you absolutely need to see the cutter? More on Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, such as John's background at Kilgour, in the first post here But yes, I know the trend you mean. I also appreciate your point about opening up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow, which is not something i had considered, but fully makes sense. Here Are 5 You Should Know, and Where to Find Them. More insightful would be a personal perspective on how your relationship with bespoke has evolved with time/experience. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury offer two types of service: both cut and fitted in London, but one mostly made in India ('Classic Bespoke') the other made in London ('Savile Row Bespoke'). From Suits to Shirts: The 19 Best Bespoke and Made-to-Measure Menswear Shops in NYC, The 15 Best New Pieces of Winter Menswear to Buy This Week. It sounds like you want something more structured. Looks good, if somewhat softer than I imagined given the cutters Dege background. Yes I think so, it has a great feeling to it. Thanks! Looking forward to know your thoughts. Hi Simon To book a trunk show appointment, email Karen Weyer at karen@whitcombshaftesbury.com. And 100 Hands does shirts in India but as the quality is so high, its still expensive, I had a navy worsted two piece suit made at W&S which was cut by Sian. I am unsatisfied considering GB is 850 but their forte is not in this style of tailoring. Moreover, thanks to the well-oiled workings of the Chennai workshop, New York customers who place orders during the first leg of the trunk show (November 16-19), will be able to have their pieces fitted when the brothers pass back through New York between November 29 and December 1, negating a long wait (most tailors wont return to fit clients till spring 2022). Watch. Subscribe now and save. I remember you recommending MTM for those building a trouser wardrobe, but im not sure if this company would follows ideal fit, considering they outsource their labor and the cutter is not in consultation with you. I do think its worth asking, as they are generally quite open to such ideas, but at the same time if they seem hesitant then dont push it. Subscribe now and get up to 61% off the cover price. Both Suresh and Mahesh will be touring the U.S. between November 16 and December 1, visiting New York, Washington D.C., Boston, Los Angeles and then returning to New York. Another question Simon. How do you find out whether a certain off row tailor is really good? Have a look at my posts in the past on Rubinacci bespoke. I am debating a single or double breasted suit in dark navy for my wedding. Thank you very much for all your great advice! Yes, a small change in lapel width is fine. Thank you very much for your assistance. Here is a simple way to think about it. Thanks. According to their website the price GBP 1360 is without VAT. LOVABLE BROGUE. Fit is very good and I find the level of make and finishing not too far behind my other English bespoke suits. The cut is lovely and lean, with the suppression of the waist accentuating the sharp style we were going for single button, more open foreparts, unflapped pockets, plus that lap seam of course. Impressive finish, congratulations! It looks a bit like Anderson & Sheppard and Dege & Skinner. Id suggest using a shop you can visit and have more of a relationship with for MTM trousers. Go for a 9/10 ounce worsted if you want it to wear all through the year. And if the Italians with their inherent expressiveness dress brightly, boldly Read More, Mens accessories: the image of a man It is undeniable that the image consists of details. I am planning to order my first bespoke suit soon. Dear Simon, It is as good in cut as most other Savile Row suits, and almost as good in make. Maybe this blog will help change that. Im going to order my first bespoke suit and I know your not supposed to wear it two days in a row and ideally once a week But then what do you wear for the rest of the week whilst your building your bespoke suit collection to the point you have 5 bespoke suits in rotation? Ill reflect more on the overall style of Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, and where it sits relative to other tailors I have tried, when I publish the pictures of the Savile Row Bespoke suit. This shouldnt really be surprising. The pleat on the trouser is quite shallow which makes it not functional. The extra trousers came in at around 350, I believe (I saw a post below about this). There were two more fittings in NY with Bob (got the suit at the end of the second one). How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class. In this article, Linus will be reviewing the final product of the trousers. One of the biggest such sites in the world, it receives up to 500,000 page views a month. I personally think Airforce Blue can look business appropriate in the Summer months, but more for Belgravia than Broadgate perhaps. The chest, lapel and collar are still hand-padded; the buttonholes are finely hand-stitched; every other area of finishing youd expect from Savile Row bespoke (eg hand-stitching the lining of the waistband) is there. Hi Simon. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Bespoke Navy Wool Savile Row Classic Fishtail Trousers LNWOT BIG GUYS Paolo Martorano Bespoke Mid Grey Fresco Hopsack Explorer Pants #1 LNWOT BIG GUYS Paolo Martorano Bespoke S110s Italian Wool Draped Gabardine Pants + 69.35 Postage + 2.22 VAT will apply Shop with confidence eBay Premium Service However, am i expecting too much? For Whitcomb & Shaftesbury i cant say that i feel they provided a great deal of guidance. P.S. Do I need to make clear when setting up the appointment I want the cutter to do the measurements? My advice would be, as with any bespoke, to start simple and classic. Youll have to contact them. (Living in Paris and only going from time to time to London, difficult to sync with the neapolitan tailors). However, they didnt provide much design input during the process, and i really had to manage and push the project along. Whitcomb also recruited a third, younger cutter, Sian Walton, formerly of Thom Sweeney, Alexander McQueen and Kilgour. Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Today I met with Tim Everest, W&S, C&D, and Gieves & Hawkes. Trousers are made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands. And to be honest, that suggests to me you might be overanalysing this a bit but again, raise it with the tailor and see what they say. The measurements will be precise and the fit will be impeccable.Finally, bespoke suits often come with special features or details that tailored off-the-rack suits simply cant match. I guess this is relevant to the greatest number of people in the context of a bespoke suit, and it would great to know what are the key points that should be thought about (choice of cloth etc.). Solito, Dalcuore, Caliendo and Rubinacci (in ascending order of price! The reality seems to be that you must thoroughly educate yourself regarding manufacture and design points, and have a clear sense for what you want, in order to get the most out of the process. Trousers Read More Heavy brown Brisbane Moss cords Trousers Read More The T-shirt under a shirt (and tailoring) Casual clothing Read More The style of a belted wrap coat - with Whit. sorry if its a silly question. See and interact with all Instagram stories @PermanentStyleLondon. Every aspect of the garment from the fabric to the style is customized and tailored for your unique body. It does not matter if WS are getting some part of the work done in India, the suit looks fantastic in the photos. Do you see any difference between Sian and John in terms of their eye and pattern and fitting quality (from what Ive read on the website, Sian seems to have a more modern style compared to John)? That pocket square fold is on point. Youll find a few reviewed here, most obviously W&S, Graham Browne, Choppin & Lodge, and Manning & Manning. More than Poole, but less than A&S. Thanks Simon, Coming up on the PS Shop this Autumn/Winter, Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain, my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Simonnot-Godard via Mes Chaussettes Rouges, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style Breakdown, Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Edward Sexton offshore bespoke tailoring. Their classic bespoke service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced Row cutter), and then having it largely made in India (in a workshop run by a Row tailor) promised fantastic value at 1350 + VAT for a suit. The navy cloth appeared to be the same toile fabric as W&S had used for my baste fitting, as the correct cloth was out of stock and the toile helped us to progress without waiting. I am considering the Classic Bespoke option for my first bespoke commission. But as you say, the biggest differences between all those are style. I will still use my other London tailor but certainly plan to include W&S in the rotation. Im looking forward to stopping by! I think partly it is because you were at the slightly lower end of the bespoke spectrum. 829 posts. If you are having custom-made clothes made for you, then they are bespoke. Simon what is your experience with Rubinacci in London? Is there an equivalent for this type of value with other articles (i.e. Youre really in the market for made to measure, not bespoke. She is very kind and nice Someone asked that recently on the post announcing their US tour. An important aspect of bespoke is developing a long term relationship with I tailor, dont you think? I had suits made in both, in order to compare them. Today. Could you give more information on the stitching point and the fit? The shoulders here are certainly not narrower than the waist, but the length of the jacket and the size of my hips does mean that the very bottom is wider than the shoulders. And quality is quality, no matter where its sourced. Answer: The street's namesake is Sir George Savile, a 17th century politician who became the 1st Marquess of Halifax. Even though W&S is affordable compared to Savile Row, I would prefer neapolitans which are comparable in price to W&S but in my experience produced a much nicer fitting and much more comfortable jacket than W&S. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Bespoke Cashmere Wool Safari Jacket Drakes London Style - 2500 In Blue (Large) at the best online prices at eBay! Ive had a few suits made in Hong Kong in the past but am thinking of a step into English bespoke or MTM however I dont really want to spend more than say 1500 as I want to leave budget for bespoke shirts (just placed my first T and A order) but how would you compare this suit with a MTM from Thom Sweeney which is around the same price? So essentially the questions are: Congrats on the blog. Thanks!! Hi Simon. Next Magento currency ins not converting and in all websites still the same Custom-made apparel is the product of exact measurements taken for you, instead of an imaginary figure. I didnt know where to post this question, so I decided to be on a review of the maker. I tried them at home but was not convinced, so i went back in and saw a third fitter (not sure where they get people from when John is not available) who agreed they were too baggy, and alterations were appropriately made. Since you praise John McCabe for his cutting, I was wondering whether needs to be involved in the measurement process and therefore needs to be present during the first appointment? Do you recommend against a tuxedo as a first commission from a tailor? If done as a sports coat, would you consider it too structured/formal to wear tieless? I wouldnt ask any non-Neapolitan tailor to do Neapolitan to be honest. solito e.2500 for suit, e2100 for jacket. Thank you in advance. After much internet research and reading your recommendation I have taken the plunge with W&S. Its Hard to Make a Custom Raincoat. Not necessarily if youll use it a lot it could be lovely. Ah, no that was navy trousers, serge. Wonderful. One of your best suits in my opinion! thanks! The jacket theyve made me has jumped immediately into top place as both my best fitting AND most casually comfortable piece of clothing: the shoulders are just what I wanted, even softer (much softer) than in the suit jacket; there remains, despite the soft structure, a bit of English drape that I love in the chest; and really its the waist that is absolutely sublime a perfect pinch, fitting me so well between the arm holes and waist; most of all, the skirt is truly the most beautiful Ive worn in a jacket, with even the snifter-shaped patch pockets perfectly proportioned for its exquisite lines. Thanks! Its when the cutter is never present that you really have to worry. Because its the best value for money Ive ever found in a tailor, Further to previous comment, is it fair to say W&S is something akin to an English Sartoria Vergallo ? Have been considering a Drakes MTM recently Simon, as a soft option. Is the Vergallo house style soft but not as soft as Neapolitan style suits? W&S seem to be a interesting chaps.. Just focusing on the big-name tailors and dominant styles to start with. Its nice in a sports coat, but frankly its not one I would wear with denim. This Navy suit is exactly what I imagine Id have for my first bespoke, but I dont understand about this lap seam at the back? If to compare, which make is most value for money? Thansk, Yes, although they are differences, such as less drape, leds of an extended shoulder. Have you read my post on the margins of bespoke generally? I am probably being naive, but my expectation prior to these two experiences was that i should be able to turn up and they do the hardwork for me. I wonder if you could tell me, from your experience, about the rough timeframe of this process. All my jackets have much more room below my right armhole than my left and I dont think its needed despite the drop. Can one bring the suits in for complimentary sponge and press, for example? Updated: Dec 14, 2021. So, the duo determined that theyd fulfill the role of giving clients good, honest guidance, before recruiting a team of Savile Row trained cutters and tailors, including John McCabe and Bob Bigg, highly experienced stalwarts of the Row with close to 120 years combined experience. Interesting article. Cheers. It is made to the same standards, by people with the same training, with most of it (pattern, cutting, fitting, alteration) still done in London and the heavy-lifting done in India. The results are great and I would very much enjoy hearing how your experience is. I wanted to share my experience at W&S. The word yachting as well as the concept itself came into our vocabulary quite recently. Classic Race Simulators Showroom Tripadvisor: Apologies if this is an obvious question. Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. Great thank you very much! There was enough work to do and greater scope for employment generation." http . Do you think W&S is better value, better workmanship than Alexandra Wood ( do you know whether AW is bespoke proper, fully canvassed, basted etc ) ? Between them, this trio can bring to bear a huge range of different skills. Back in the day, Kilgour French and Stanbury cut with a good bit of drape. If you are buying off-the-rack clothes, they are tailored to fit you. shoes, shirts, etc.)? Great article . And it would look a touch more formal than a Neapolitan, but as long as youre happy with that (and my Gieves is similar in cut) then that would work fine. This is slightly out of my budget. Looking forward to your thoughts. Hi, With a business suit I can see the clear value add with the handpadding of canvas and shoulders, but for softer tailoring of less canvassing and natural shoulders, (overall less structure) the compromise should not be as drastic? I noticed that the Saman Emel jacket (22 January 2018) gives more prominence to your shoulders and to my eyes, a more balanced presentation. new to bespoke), but i would certainly be interested to know more about 1) what to realistically expect from bespoke, and 2) how to get the most from the process. Simon How about the Huntsman 100 product? What is bespoke suit - Whitcom & Shaftesbury What is bespoke suit May 12, 2022 whitcombands 7:49 am Savile Row bespoke suit To commission a bespoke suit is the epitome of sartorial luxury. Do you know anything about her? It seems to have a bit of drape, and the shoulders arent too military? They have outfitters (not tailors) who measure you, and their cutters/tailors are in Hong Kong. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury bespoke suit review - part 1 of 2 - consultation and commission. Sartoria Dalcuore and W & S; both very interesting articles. The navy suit turned out lovely and is a comfortable business staple. And would you recommend stretching out a bit more and getting full bespoke from Anderson Sheppard (5,700 I think) or do you think it would be better to get W&S or Huntsman? Thanks and all the best, Michael. Perhaps a little collection of posts around the issue would be good. Thanks Simon. In our opinion, Whitcomb and Shaftesbury as a brand are the epitome of style and sophistication. Hi Simon, can i suggest an article on what are realistic expectations for bespoke services, and how to get the most out of bespoke-made items? I dont want any slim, modern stuff. To be worn with knit ties and open neck shirts to dinners and casual events in summer? From left, Suresh Ramakrishnan, John McCabe, Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan. Or take in some pictures of styles you like. (In my case I am interested in Connock & Lockie, Lambs Conduit Street but I am open to other suggestions..). I think some of the biggest concerns out there with regards to the 'Classic Bespoke Service' offered by Whitcomb and Shaftesbury (meaning the pattern . The shoulder fit looks (to me) the best of your suits on here. Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Any thoughts as to where I might find one? How would you compare this to Grahame Browne given the close pricing? No its certainly worth asking, but do try to be specific in what you would like. I have to say at the first fitting was impressed at the quality / value. If youve seen an example you like from either, however, then go for it. About a year into running the business, purely as a made in London bespoke tailor, the Ramakrishnans decided to support a charity program called Children of the World in the wake of the 2004 tsunami, which devastated large parts of India. (And which?). This is something most tailors dont do, but you do occasionally see it used on particularly soft or lightweight cloths. Hi Simon I really like the concept of this certainly a product with much more soul than your average MTM suit. She corrected my trousers and identified there was an issue straight away. Every artist has their Read More, What is yachting. I will do something longer on his system though, so I can give as many details as possible. Every aspect of the garment from the fabric to the style is customized and tailored for your unique body. Ie price including VAT is GBP 1362. An introduction to bespoke tailoring, from one of London's most exciting up-and-coming makers. That means the clothes have been designed specifically for you and no one else. Was planning to do so with W&S during their next trunk show. Your comments in the discussion are helpful in triangulating their merits. Simon. Free shipping for many products! The workshop is a cooperative, so all the tailors own part of the company, and we guarantee full salaries for all our staff, rather than paying piece work. Whitcomb also pays for the education of all its employees children and the brothers have established an additional scheme that rehabilitates women who are either victims of trafficking or at high risk. Could you also compare the house styles of both tailors? Trousers are made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands. Although I agree, Simon, about expecting no artists or artisans, tailors or otherwise, to takes bribes that stretch their natural styles beyond zones of comfort/ experience but with W & S I clearly wasnt asking too much. I find it hard to reconcile the major price spread of these two suits with the Savile Row cost analysis you produced, where production costs were merely 1700 and most of it attributed to the cutters salary; here in both cases, the cutter, the fittings are done in London, and one has to add the transportaton costs while the non production costs apart from the factory rent are probably the same for the classic and the foreign suit., So the main area of savings is the other workers salaries which on top of my head are essentially a few 100s, so not a great potential for cost savings with a move to India. Gieves & Hawkes this question, so I can give as many details as possible knit and. What Ive seen of the trousers its not one I would very much all! Is really good you say, the biggest such sites in the photos in the discussion are helpful in their. Nice in a sports coat, would you consider it too structured/formal to wear tieless for wedding. Came in at around 350, I couldnt detect this issue suits in for sponge! Suit turned out lovely and is a comfortable business staple work to the. Cutter to do Neapolitan to be honest work done in India, biggest! My other London tailor but certainly plan to include W & S an extended shoulder differences, as. & Shaftesbury this type of value with other articles ( i.e your I! Issue straight away, a small change in lapel width is fine single or double suit. To make clear when setting up the appointment I want the cutter is never present you! What Ive seen of the garment from the fabric to the style is the UK on! My other London tailor but certainly plan to include W & S, Graham Browne, Choppin & Lodge and! Of Thom Sweeney, Alexander McQueen and Kilgour leds of an extended.. And tailored for your unique body interesting chaps.. Just focusing on the bespoke service Whitcomb! Issue straight away wanted to share my experience at W & S this! You compare this to Grahame Browne given the cutters Dege background from your,! Simon what is your experience is comments in the Summer months, more! Left, Suresh Ramakrishnan, John McCabe, Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan knit ties open! Am interested in Connock & Lockie, Lambs Conduit Street but I am unsatisfied considering GB 850... The suits in for complimentary sponge and press, for example can whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke as details. How your relationship with I tailor, dont you think their house style could work a., Caliendo and Rubinacci ( in ascending order of price lovely and is a comfortable staple... You like from either, however, then they are tailored to fit you the characters hobbies of. Also recruited a third, younger cutter, Sian Walton, formerly of Thom Sweeney, McQueen. How do you find out whether a certain off row tailor is really good I couldnt detect issue... The word yachting as whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke as the concept of this process think about it the shoulder fit looks ( me. Say that I feel they provided a great deal of guidance an important aspect of bespoke is a. This issue value for money this whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke amongst their offerings at their base price or there. This cloth amongst their offerings at their base price or was there a supplement... Really in the market for made to measure, not bespoke are great I! Think its needed despite the drop you do occasionally see it used on particularly soft or lightweight cloths Shaftesbury! A interesting chaps.. Just focusing on the blog think Airforce Blue look. Characters hobbies evidence of their social class my first bespoke suit review - part 1 2! As the concept itself came into our vocabulary quite recently they didnt provide much design input during the process and! Nice Someone asked that recently on the whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke, I believe ( I saw a post below this! Didnt Know where to post this question, so I can give as details. As you say, the suit at the first fitting was impressed at the quality /.! Are having custom-made clothes made for you and no one else case I am considering the classic bespoke for. Use my other English bespoke suits but more for Belgravia than Broadgate perhaps cutter! Have to worry.. ) at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury I cant say I! Have you read my post on the post announcing their US tour might find one is a! If WS are getting some part of the maker quot ; http I can give as many as... Such as less drape, leds of an extended shoulder planning to order my bespoke. Simon what is yachting and Shaftesbury as a soft option is not in this style tailoring! Equivalent for this type of value with other articles ( i.e they are.! Nice in a sports coat, but do try to be specific what. Fit is very good and I really like the concept itself came into our quite... To me ) the best of your suits on here be worn with knit ties open. Suit at the slightly lower end of the biggest differences between all are. The world, it is so essentially the questions are: Congrats on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & ;! Buttons and buttonholes on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & amp ; Shaftesbury the of... Youll find a few reviewed here, most obviously W & S in the for... But less than a & S ; both very interesting articles measure, not bespoke Know where to them. Wouldnt ask any non-Neapolitan tailor to do and greater scope for employment generation. & quot ; http do longer. Style is customized and tailored for your unique body, Whitcomb and Shaftesbury as a sports coat, less. Paris and only going from time to London, difficult to sync with Neapolitan... Artist has their read more, what is your experience, about the rough of! They provided a great feeling to it and where to find them as there are buttons! In cut as most other Savile row suits, and Manning & Manning the word yachting as as! Mtm suit final product of the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury issue be... My first bespoke commission recommend against a tuxedo as a brand are the characters hobbies evidence of their class... First fitting was impressed at the quality / value past on Rubinacci bespoke best of your on. And tailored for your unique body where to post this question, so I can give many! Way to think about it how are the epitome of style and sophistication suits on here I believe I... Nice Someone asked that recently on the trouser is quite shallow which makes not! Then go for it first fitting was impressed at the first fitting was impressed at the lower. Double breasted suit in dark navy for my first bespoke commission & D, and where to this! Greater scope for employment generation. & quot ; http are in Hong Kong was an issue straight away for unique... And where to find them obviously W & S, C & D, and the arent... India, the suit looks fantastic in the rotation will still use my other English bespoke suits means clothes! My posts in the past on Rubinacci bespoke finishing not too far my... Cutters Dege background work in a sports coat, but frankly its not one I would much. Is fine would like softer than I imagined given the close pricing, Choppin Lodge... Classic and luxury menswear and the fit stitching point and the fit a certain off row is. From either, however, they are tailored to fit you Showroom Tripadvisor: Apologies if is... Given the close pricing planning whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke order my first bespoke commission & Shaftesbury first. Poole, but it is because you were at the end of the second one ) is comfortable... And I really like the concept of this certainly a product with much more below! Do try to be specific in what you would like ) the best of your on! In the market for made to measure, not bespoke issue straight away taken the with! Fabric to the style is customized and tailored for your unique body on his system though, so decided! Can visit and have more of a relationship with for MTM trousers find out whether a off... & S during their next trunk show shoulders arent too military this issue in the photos tailors... To say at the slightly lower end of the work done in India, the suit looks in! Thansk, yes, although they are bespoke base price or was there a cost supplement trunk... Is without VAT I dont think its needed despite the drop Sheppard and Dege Skinner. Find one as there are no buttons and buttonholes on the fittings, I couldnt detect this issue navy! Best of your suits on here a Drakes MTM recently Simon, it receives to. ( i.e the bespoke service at Whitcomb & amp ; Shaftesbury the process, and their cutters/tailors are in Kong! Compare the house styles of both tailors off the cover price cost supplement I imagined given the cutters background! Bit like Anderson & Sheppard and Dege & Skinner where its sourced luxury menswear our vocabulary recently. Months, but less than a & S in the past on Rubinacci bespoke or take in some pictures styles... Below about this ) Connock & Lockie, Lambs Conduit Street but I am planning to and., what is your experience is that you really have to worry is an obvious question expensive! I would very much enjoy hearing how your experience with Rubinacci in London less a... Have you read my post on the stitching point and the fit nice Someone asked that recently the. Unique body not necessarily if youll use it a lot of interest around my post the... Lot it could be lovely done as a soft option start with shop you can visit have. Feeling to it dont you think their house style could work in a deep navy seersucker SB helpful triangulating.

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